Where Are We?

Thursday, 25 November 2010

Eastbound And Down


With two hours of driving under our belts and safely out of the city, we stopped to give Spot a well earned drink. Embarking on that first stretch without the proper tools for the job (hat) had been reckless and we arrived at the gas station tense, but relieved to have made it in one piece. This was our last hope to obtain our coveted headwear. Fate stepped in again where we needed it most - there it was! On the shelf before us, as if sent by the trucking gods: the perfect truckers hat, 'Freightliner' emblazoned reassuringly across the front. We breathed a massive sigh of relief - we were going to be OK. 


Some put their faith in hats...









































With the hat firmly wedged on Mike's head, all fears dissipated. Relieved, Tom crawled into the back to get some sleep before his early morning driving shift. Sleep was restless, was it the uneven southern roads or was Spot's engine not as smooth as usual? Trusting the power of the hat, Tom rolled over and attempted to sleep.

At around 4 am however, Tom woke up to neon lights piercing the cosy confines of the back of the van. The van was motionless. Where were we? Clambering into the vacant front section to peer into the outside world, the evidence started to piece itself together. Mike was emerging from a gas station, flanked by an grease-stained mechanic wielding two cans of oil. Spot had been parched of lubricant and delightfully lapped up both helpings of luxury oil. We eyed the cap suspiciously.

An Oily Night, Spot says 'Aaaah', and Mike's fuel of choice





We hit the road again, with Spot restored to his former self. After a couple of hours sitting in the co-pilot's seat, watching Mike struggle to the end of his shift, eye-lids practically welded shut, Tom took over. Lit by the eerie half light of the newly rising sun, Tom peeled the unconscious deadweight of a completely spent Mike off the drivers seat, rolled him into the back and took over the controls. 

In a 5 hour stint, through multiple time zones, we smashed through Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, Tennessee, and finally came to rest in a gas station somewhere in Virginia. Spot rolled to a halt just as Tom's face made contact with the steering wheel, unleashing a shrill horn blast which snapped Mike out of his slumber. He quickly wrestled Tom off the wheel, removed the trucker's cap from his sweaty brow and threw his limp body into the back.

A succession of energy bars had kept us going through the night, but the miles were catching up with us - we were going to need some proper food. Our first interaction with humans for about 800 miles came as a shock. We felt like aliens walking into the nearby Subway; a raucous local family were communicating in some twangy foreign dialect, incorporating a mixture of snorts and coughs. As we approached the front of the line (queue) we were dreading opening our mouths to speak, convinced the locals wouldn't understand us. Tom went for it - ordering our subs in loud, slow phonetics. The old lady behind the counter stared blankly with a faint smile growing on her face. Tom had stopped speaking but she was still staring, showing no signs of taking in the order. 

"I shir can fix y'all oup, bu' furrrst til me wir in the wrrld y'alls are furm"

This time it was our turn to stare blankly. 

"England?" we guessed...

Suddenly she burst into a huge smile and seemingly satisfied with our response, went about preparing our sandwiches. The pattern continued and we'd soon spoken to everyone in the store, staff and customers included.

Bellies full, Mike took the final 6 hour shift, taking us right into the centre of Washington, DC. 

We had made it.

Wednesday, 24 November 2010

Into the Hornet's Nest



With our time in the States running out, the next day we solidified our plan: Go to that evening's basketball game then immediately hit the road to drive all the way to Washington - an ambitious journey of over 1000 miles. Our final day in New Orleans consisted of another blog marathon, salads and soup.

With a journey of epic proportions coming up, we knew that a non-stop drive of such distance would not be physically possible without a genuine trucker's cap.


No hard feelings then!
Hardcore Pawn

Interior and exterior of the Superdome - stunning

After an exhaustive, but ultimately failed search of New Orleans for a cap, we were left in a state of desperation. At one point we crossed a tramp donning potentially the hat of our dreams, and considered trading it for some of our tinned food, but the thought of wearing it continuously for 18 hours was not pleasant. We would have to set off without the correct equipment for the job: the success of the mission was hanging in the balance.

Trying to put aside our apprehension ahead of such a feat of human travel, we entered the 'Hornet's Nest' and nervously watched the spectacle of the New Orleans Hornets destroying the Trailblazers. It was another glitzy American sporting occasion, punctuated by (interior!) fireworks, music and a generous helping of cheerleaders. The final hooter sounded (a horn, not cheerleader) and we filed out of the stadium.






Now it was time to get our game faces on. We approached Spot, who was poised in the fluorescent lights of the parking lot, ready for his biggest test yet. Mike fired up the engine as Tom punched in the co-ordinates. Distance to destination: 1128 miles. Estimated journey time: 18 hrs. And we didn't even have a truckers hat. This was going to be tough.

Poetry in Motion




With the excitement of Nascar over, and a high pitched residual ringing now a constant companion to everything we did, we set about planning the next few days. We had one more stop-off before we left Dallas - Mike had hooked up another meeting with one of his concept design contacts, leaving Tom once again wondering whether he was just a passenger on an elaborate networking trip!


 Jeremy works for the industry-leading game production studio ' iD ', and had mentored Mike via email for many years as he learnt his craft. We rolled up to Jeremy's impressive out-of-town office and after signing Non-Disclosure Acts, we were led into the secretive inner sanctum of the studio. We (well,Tom was trying his best to keep up) spent hours talking normal map applications and art style choices, while playing their new top secret 'in-production' game: ***************. We continued on a full tour of the studio where we saw *************** being developed for ***************. The designs for the *************** looked stunning, especially the *************** and ***************. 

Having been blown away by seeing some amazing stuff at iD, Jeremy treated us to a fine meal at Cheesecake Factory (despite the name, this is a really plush restaurant) where we talked about his history at the best studios in the industry such as ILM and Blur. 


We were indulged with a fine range of stories from his time at George Lucas’s ranch working on the Star Wars prequels and his ILM time modelling Transformers for Michael Bay – it was inspiring stuff! We ended the evening with a slice of the infamous Original Factory Cheesecake, bid our farewells and returned to our Hotel! 



After Dallas the trip was unplanned (as always) so we needed to work out where to go, and tellingly at this part of the trip, where we still had time to go. A swift glance at the map left us with only one real option: New Orleans. We'd heard as much good about the city as bad, with Tom's enthusiasm for a bustling hub for soulful artists and jazz musicians cancelled out by Mike's abject fear of being raped by hillbillies in the deep South. On hearing about the thriving strip club scene in the city however, Mike cast aside his doubts and jumped on board. Our destination was set.

Wild Bill, wild style
Two days after meeting CG maestro Jeremy, we awoke in a truckers stop in Louisiana, having embarked on a mammoth all night drive to escape Texas and make some headway into Louisiana. The climate was changing rapidly as we headed south, and as the cooking heat of the day began to kick in, we pulled ourselves out of our sleeping bags emerging into the world along with a host of bleary eyed truckers.


Having abused the nearby McDonald's toilet facilities, naturally we could only think of one thing to do: blow Southerners' minds with our freestyle football skills! Our mid-carpark tricks session attracted the attention of 'Wild Bill' - an old lone traveler and hostel owner from Leadville, who from our skills could tell we weren’t from around these parts! He told us about life in Leadville, which is the highest town in the USA (at over 10,000 ft) and home of the Leadville 100 mile ultra marathon. He gave us a thorough breakdown of all the local attractions, sights and history – the man was a human sponge, absorbing knowledge from his vast experience travelling all over the world, and his enthusiastic advice was a welcome change of pace from non-stop driving.

We hit the road again, driving in shifts until our arrival in New Orleans, along the way soaking up Southern hospitality on our frequent fuel breaks. A sleeping Mike unfortunately missed out on the dramatic entrance to the city as we approached on a raised highway, skimming across the surface of the huge Lake Pontatrain. We headed immediately for the old French Quarter, New Orleans' beautiful historical district, which was dripping with atmosphere and soul. This was unlike anything we'd seen in the States, and we were spellbound by the classical Spanish architecture as we wandered the oil lantern-lit streets. 



We managed to stumble across an incredible hotel deep within the quarter, complete with wrought-iron gallery. As always with life on the road though, we didn't have long to stop and enjoy our new balcony's views - we had run out of clothes to wear, so hit the laundry. What was already shaping up to be the finest laundry we'd experienced (and we've seen a lot) turned out to be a registered landmark of New Orleans history: an old R&B recording studio and 'the home' of Rock N Roll music! 

Exhausted by two days of non-stop traveling (and some intense laundry), we headed through the quarter's bustling streets in search of a quiet spot to grab some food. As if by fate, the best Spaghetti Bolognese of all time presented itself to us in our hour of need. After demolishing what was our first really nourishing meal for days, and sampling a few bottles of the local Louisianna-brewed Abita beer, we headed back to the hotel. In a part-comatose state of contentment we took a seat on our balcony and drank in the moody dusty street scene below, before sloping off to bed, pondering how many days we could afford to stay in this amazing city.



Socks, Suds and Rock n Roll



The answer turned out to be three. With no rooms available in the building, we would have to move in down the road at their sister building 'Creole House'. As we left what had been our best hotel of the trip, we shared a coffee with the receptionist who told us all about her experiences when the infamous Hurricane Katrina caused havoc in the city. It was a fascinating and moving insight to hear about the hurricane's devastating effects on families from someone who had gone through it. 

Once installed in our quirky new attic room, we set out in the blistering heat in search of a bar from which to update the blog. Our quest led us to 'Turtle Bay' a typically buzzing bar which happened to be right opposite our new favourite spagetti-providing cafe. We had a lot to catch up on and fuelled as usual by a constant torrent of local beers we launched into a flurry of writing activity. As always, the adventure found us somehow - Tom overheard a shady looking character at the bar talking about cheap basketball tickets. A swift google revealed there was a game the following night and before Mike could intervene Tom had leapfrogged the table, $40 flapping in the air. We suddenly had tickets to New Orleans Hornets vs Portland Trailblazers.



It was getting late and the streets were starting to fill up with eager revelers. After a quick hop across the road for a bowl of spaghetti, we finished off the blogging for the day and shifted our focus to hitting the New Orleans night life. The night was a blur of hipster bars and street performing hip-hop brass bands. The bohemian tone was complimented by a row of poets hunched over typewriters on the sidewalk. Sensing fellow word-smiths, (but doubting they could achieve the kind of literary highs you've been treated to courtesy of us) we cornered one of the poets, threw some key words about the trip at him, and disappeared into a bar while he worked his magic. A couple of beers and another brass band later, we returned, collected our poem and vowed not to open it up until the right moment. What ever that meant. We had obviously been infiltrated by the pretentious nature of the area!

The final verse of our Poet's masterpiece

































Stranger does uncanny Mike impersonation

On our short stagger back to the hotel, we stumbled into the entrance of a late-night sandwich place 'Quarter Master'. Unbelievably, the friendly broad (we're also being influenced by American language at this point) from the rock n roll laundry was behind the counter! With her recommendation, we sampled another southern delicacy: The po-boy - the pinnacle of human advancement in drunken food technology.

Drunk, full of greasy junk and feeling a tad tired, we returned to our semi gothic hotel room and slumbered.